Well first of all let me say that my views on the correct selection of rods are somewhat un fashionable!
however I justify that by saying that I don’t give a dam if other anglers think I’m fashionable or not! The bank is a place for catching fish not a catwalk to pose with the latest gear!
Just in case anyone looking in doesn’t know what a test curve is- A test curve or TC as it is commonly abbreviated is the amount of weight that would be required if hung from the tip to bend the tip to 90 degrees to the butt.
This is used to give an indication of the rods power and also can be used (more details later) to give an indication of the range of suitable line strengths that can be used. It doesn’t describe the other important property i.e. action. An early use of test curves was by the famous tackle manufacturers Hardy’s back in the late 1930’s but the system we use now can be accounted to the famous specimen hunter, dick Walker, back in the 50’s. This is probably why TC’s are used to describe specimen type rod strengths and other systems used to rate the likes of fly or boat rods for example.
I mentioned earlier that the TC of a rod gives a guide to the best range of line strengths to be used with it. The accepted formulae is that if you multiply the TC by 5 it will give you the ideal line strength e.g. a 2lb TC carp rod would be best suited to a 10lb line. Also a guide to casting weight can be obtained by using a bomb that’s weight in ounces is similar to the rods TC e.g. the same 2lb carp rod would be fine with a 2ozs lead. Exact casting weights are more affected by the other important factor the rods action.
As you can see the diagram shows the most common rod actions. There are obviously variations on these such as ultra or extra fast action. At this point let me say that as a lot of the rods action is governed by the taper of the rod blank actions are also commonly described by this taper as well! i.e. the through action rod is also known as a slow taper and the fast action as fast taper! Told you it wasn’t easy!
The actual materials and “wrapping” process used to make the blank and even if the blank is “ground” or “ungrounded” can also affect the action but it would take a lot of diagrams and words to explain this. For practical angling purposes though the TC combined with the rod action enables us to make the correct rod selection.
Traditionally fast action rods have been preferred for long distance casting as when they are compressed (the act of bending the rod) the much thinner, softer tip section bends quickly allowing the more powerful remainder of the rod to come in to play resulting in more strength to project the lead and longer casts. This action also helps picking up the line and setting the hook at distance for the same reasons. The downside is that this sort of action is not so good for playing fish. At close range great care must be taken so that the hooks aren’t pulled out or line broken.
At the other extreme slow taper or through actioned rods are best for playing fish. Their supple action readily absorbs any sudden lunges from big fish and tires them out quickly. As an example the rods I use for big catfish only have a 4lb TC but also an extreme through action. With these I can land treble figure cats in around 7minutes compared to the guys who use much heavier (fast taper) sea fishing uptide boat rods.
My mate Rob playing a big cat on a through actioned rod.
Like I said though it aint that easy! As a fast taper rod has to be compressed quicker than a slow one it makes them unsuitable for using with soft baits such as many used live or dead for pike. The fast rod tends to rip the bait from the hook with its fast “punching” casting action where the slower “lobbing” action of the slow taper/through action rod doesn’t.
As I’m sure you are starting to appreciate for a lot of fishing the right choice of rod is a bit of a compromise.
I will give you a list of examples of traditional rod TC and action choices for several different angling variations-
1. Traditional Avon style rod for Tench, Bream, Chub etc. - Through-Medium 1 1/4lb
2. General Barbel fishing - Medium action 1 ¼ -1 3/4lb
3. Close in fishing for carp up to 30m - Through action 1 ½lb <br>4. Medium range carp up to 75m - Medium action 2lb
5. Close range but in heavy weed - Through action 2lb-2 1/2lb
6. Long range in excess of 100m - Fast taper 2 3/4lb-3lb
7. Normal range Pike fishing - Medium -Through action 2 3/4lb-3lb
8. Long range piking with a Drifter float - Fast taper 3lb-3 1/4lb
These traditional choices still IMO remain a good starting point for rod selection. As you can see the water conditions and method you intend to use also must be taken in to account.
As a general trend modern recommendations are for a lot higher test curve rods. This is due to two main practical reasons-the fact that a lot of fish now grow to a lot higher average size (Barbel and tench are the best example here, many situations requiring 1 3/4lb rods for tench and in flood conditions 2lb rods for barbel). The other is the gain in popularity of new methods (The use of “method” feeders and “PVA” bags for carp being an example here. You obviously need a stronger rod to cast out either of these two)
Where I differ strongly in opinion to most modern carp anglers is that I don’t agree with the advocating of ultra long range equipment i.e. 3lb+ TC fast taper rods and giant “Big pit” reels as the standard carp outfit! Times I see people using this gear on waters of half the size of even Lodge Pool! Not only isn’t it needed but is a positive hindrance. And why? Following fashion that’s all! Even though famous carp angler “X” uses it they fail to see that he uses it because he needs to cast 120m+ on an inland sea! A lot of the increase in carp rod strengths came about (along with the increase in lead sizes) directly as a result of the change to 15lb line as the standard strength for carping. No taking in to account different conditions/situations.
That said I understand that some can not afford to kit themselves out with a range of rods to cover all situations but compromise is the answer here not just buying equipment at either extreme just to look cool or follow fashion. Especially as this sort of gear is so expensive and most will never fish waters where it is remotely necessary!
Well I hope that gives you a bit of an insight into Test Curves/rod actions and their use in rod selection.
however I justify that by saying that I don’t give a dam if other anglers think I’m fashionable or not! The bank is a place for catching fish not a catwalk to pose with the latest gear!