To catch carp slurping down floating baits like crusts or mixers which have either been scattered amongst the marginal growth or drifted there with the wind, there cannot be a more simple rig than using just a hook itself. If the fish are directly below the rod tip, lower the floater down so it rest on the surface without any slack line lying on the water. Hold the rod loosely yet expectantly with the reel's bale closed(the clutch properly set), and in the other hand hold a loop of line pulled from between butt ring and reel (see figure 1)
This you let slip through your fingers when a carp closes its mouth over the bait and submerges with it, before whacking the rod back to set the hook.
Many carp anglers would rate this particular form of marginal floater fishing as the most exiting technique of all and I would certainly not give them an argument. It is extremely satisfying, but demands tremendous stealth simply crawling into a possition where a bait can be lowered amongst patrolling surface-feeding fish.
When surface activity is slow and the appearance of carp is not expected until the light start to fade(either due to weather or clear water conditions)quietly set the rod ontwo rests, again with the bale arm closed, and instead of holding the loop of line between the butt ring and reel, hang on a lightweight coil indicator. A cylinder of silver foil is perfect (see figure 2)
When fishing this method over marginal lilies, wind the bait so it comes to rest alongside the pads and lay the line over them (see figure 3)
Don't for a moment imagine the carp cannot see even small floaters presented in this way. They are looking up into bright light, and can even identify the form of a floater resting completely on top of a lily pad. On numerous occasions I have witnessed carp knocking pads to dislodge a seemingly invisible (to them) unreachable floater. And they are not satisfied until such food is in their stomachs.
When using pieces of floating bread-crust over pads, or drifting them across the surface in open area, if carp are suspicious of the floating bread use a crust/flake cocktail. Start by sliding a piece of crust up over the eye of the hook and then squeeze on a giant piece of flake. slide the crust down again and gently squeeze a part of the flake on to the crust, thus 'locking' them together. Hopefully they will hold to together until a carp investigates and 'knocks' them apart, wherupon the flake will slowly start to sink.At this point the carp can stand it no longer and promptly suck in the flake. Watch the line carefully and hit any positive movement instantly.
Floating Controllers When carp will only accept floaters presented further out because the water along the margins is either too clear, too shallow or both, making them feel vulnerable, casting weight is required in a form of a self cocking controller (see fig 4) like the 'ten pin', which is available in two sizes, one for distances uo to 30yards, and a larger one for much greater distances.
Loose feed floaters like small biscuits, boilies and so on can all be catapulted into any given area alongside features, and the hook bait deposited accurately among them. Or better still, cast out the controller and hook baitwell up wind; then catapult the loose feed around it, allowing the floating food to drift down wind whilst playing out line from an open(wel-filled)spool
Rig up a 'ten pin' bt threaded the reel line(which should be liberally greased with mucilin so it float well)through the swivel. Then thread on a small bead and tie on the hook. Anywhere from a 2ft to 6ft above the hook, tie on a sliding stop knot against which the bead and finally the controller will come to rest (see figure 5)
Alternatively, after threading on the ten pin and bead, tie on a small swivel and to its other end add the hook link. this may be lighter than the reel line (if carp are really spooky), and anywhere from 2ft to 6ft long - even 10ft if you can cast it. start with a 4ft long hook link, however, for easy casting and finish the rig by adding the hook. For large baits use hook sizes 6 - 8 while small floater are more naturally presented on a strong , forged, size 10 or even size 12 provided conditions allow.
Tacticscarp are invariably more wary of accepting surace baits once they have been associated them with danger than they are of bottom-fished baits. But by fishing as light as you dare, using much finer line than normal, for a instance 6lb test intead of 10lb test if conditions permit, and by fishing during periods of low light at dusk, dawn or even well on into darkness, most problems can be solved. Carp refuse the bait because they can see the line and hook, or because the bait behaves unlike all the free offerings around it due to the weight of the hook and drag from the line. Carp prove this time and time again by mopping up all the free floater, but not the oneon the hook. It is frustration personifield. ;D the problem is not getting them to accept floating food but to accept the hook bait. even familiar unattached bait like pieces of bread crust are taken down, maybe not so quickly on waters regularly fished,but disappear they eventually will.
In contrast to bottom baits, at least it's possible to actually observe the reaction of carp and consequently do something about the way which the bait is refused. anything and everything is worth trying. Go for a much longer hook link to create less drag; or smaller hook; two floater instead of one, which provides greater buoyancy;grease or even degrease the hook link, and so on.
If all else fails, put your faith in the hair rig(see fig 6)
and offer the bait off the hook. Rig the floater up sleeved on to a fine mono or dacron 1inch in hair, and support the hook so it floats horizontally on the surface by threading a lenght of 3mm duplon(rod-handle material) on to the shank. There are all sorts of variations worth trying along these lines. Go down in hook size: try two or even three floaters on the hair instead of one; or a cocktail, one biscuit and one boilie together on the same hair, a boilie and casters, and so on.
Offering a floatering bait is perhaps the most selective of all big carp methods,because you can actually watch the fish of your dreams close its great lips over the bait.
You can even pull the bait away from lesser fish should the commotion of hooking one scare off a monster which is one amongst a group of modest sized carp.
Because the line actually passes through the top of the controller, when a carp moves away with the bait the line will visibly tighten and 'lift' across the surface. hold the rod all the time with the bale arm closed ready for action. Straighten any bow in the line formed by wind drift, leaving just a little slack so as not to scare interested fish through resistance. Keep your eyes fixed on the float's red top and identify your hookbait amongst the loose ones, striking on sight if you suddenly see it go without line actually moving or whistling through the float.
Not all carp belt off. Some merely sink slowly beneath the surface and munch merrily away. remember the controller float is not designed to go under, simply to take the bait out anywhere from 10 yard to 50 yards. At distances beyond this, casting and wind drift problems hamper float control and striking.
i think you have answered my request. Some good tips in thier. 
